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Submitted on
August 25, 2007
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Make
Panasonic
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DMC-FZ7
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10/4000 second
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Date Taken
Aug 25, 2007, 3:13:27 PM
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R-9a "Arrowhead" by slycherrychunks R-9a "Arrowhead" by slycherrychunks
Dont know if you guys remember this: [link]
I went back to my parent's place for the weekend and got a chance to take some pictures of this thing with a decent camera.

This kit has been a horrible long time coming - and it still isn't complete (It needs a stand). Putting it together was one big learning process and the end result is a miss-mosh of ideas and techniques, some things I tried worked and some things went really wrong.
Although this was my first resin, building it up presented no difficulties - I collected the little lead Games Workshop figures for a long time so I'm used to working with "harsh" materials and the whole process of filing/trimming away mould defects and filling gaps with putty is something I'm used to. Although I've been known to cut corners on just about all my other model work, I decided that I should pin this during assembly. Thankfully, the kit came with all its pin-holes pre-drilled so building it really was a piece of cake.

I painted the main fuselage up with games Workshop Paints. I went for a slightly more contrasting colour scheme than the the ones shown on the Spectre's website. (I consider neither my nor Spectre's colour scheme to be accurate to the CGI as the CGI craft depicted in the opening movies is clearly coloured silver)
The techniques you read about in any Games Workshop guides really are great for super-fine modelling such as their range of minatures (generally in a 25mm scale) but larger kits like this one are really better suited to airbrush work (Seiryuga will tell you this) and you only have to browse through sites such as starshipmodeler.com to realise the kind of effects that can be achieved. It is possible to get better results than mine using brushes but you need more time, more space and better equipment - three things I dont have, so at the end of the day I dont think using brushes on the main body was a good idea.

Unfortunately, once I completed the fuselage and got to the canopy, I realised that I didnt know what I was doing.

Something that Games Workshop no longer does is clear paint. At the time I had no idea where I could obtain these so I managed to source some Plasti-Kote spraypaint from ebay - stuff recommended for use on glass. Painting the canopy took many tries. Atmospheric conditions, distance you hold the can from your model, and the thickness of coverage are all things that can wildly affect the results you're trying to achieve. I had problems with both a speckled coverage and then bubbles forming in too thick a coverage. Needless to say, using this product effectively is something that takes, to put it bluntly, A FUCK-LOAD OF SKILL to get right.
Even after that though, the results weren't satisfactory as the paint didn't seem to set right on the resin. The Force Module had a much larger peice of clear resin and I wasnt sure how to handle this so work on the model went on indefinate hold until I could workout what the best way to proceed was.

Much, much later after I had started a new job in the city, I stumbled across a hobby store which pretty much sold everything I could have ever wanted for this kit. I grabbed some Tamiya paints including some clear colours and set about finishing the model off. The Bits and Control Rods were sprayed with a Tamiya aircraft grey and given an inkwash with some black Revell enamel. When half-dry, you can clean the wash off the raised areas with thinner, leaving the Tamiya grey to show through. This is a neat little trick I got off hobbylink japan and is something that is impossible to do with Games Workshop paints.
Painting the ball bits presented an interesting challenge. You cannot coat every side of the ball at the same time - and no matter how you sprayed it, paint would drip down the ball and ruin it. I ended up masking off one hemisphere and painting it and then masking/spraying the other half when it was dry. Sadly I had no modeller's tape so I used regular sellotape and got sticky gunge all over my model which ruined the transparency and was hard to clean off. DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU ARE AN IDIOT. Painting the sphere in two halfs also left a visible line around the middle, where the two coats overlap. Fortunately this was hidden by the control rods when the model was assembled.
As for the transparent parts on the Bits, well - you only see one half so painting these was no problem.
After that, I resprayed the canopy with a clear blue Tamiya paint but because It happend to be a cold rainy day rather the the warm dry day it was when I did the orange bits - I had a lot of trouble getting the coating just right. It does say on the can that you shouldnt use it in humid conditions.
I sealed the non-transparent parts with a couple coats of Games Workshop matt varnish - the stuff that really isnt matt at all. Also, maybe because my can is about ten years old, the varnish yellowed in places, severly fucking the model up. I'd used superglue on some parts of the fuselage but to avoid getting the "misting" effect that you sometimes get with superglue, and to help fill some gaps between parts, the final assembly was done with a crystal clear two part epoxy glue - which did the job fine.

I thought about mounting the model and even went so far as to obtain some brass rod with which to build the stand. Shortly after that I moved out though, and no longer have the space to do any work of this kind.

*I consider myself a top-tier painter of the little Games Workshop figures, my army won a painting and modeling competion in the mid nineties. I was disqualified from the competion seconds after winning though and the award hilariously went to my brother instead. As for the R-9, I consider it pretty much a complete disaster, but also a stepping stone on to better and more ambitious projects.
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:iconraakone:
Awesome R-9 there!
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:iconmarksman104:
Marksman104 Mar 7, 2011  Hobbyist Artist
Man it has been YEARS since i played Super R-Type. I have a similar version on the Xbox but it isn't as good as the original.
Reply
:iconicecoffin:
IceCoffin Mar 6, 2008  Student General Artist
OOOOOOOOOOHHHH MAN.

This is awesome. It's too bad you aren't the happiest with it- I can't tell! Then again, I can't exactly draw R-9 right, so, what the hey.

It looks really nice, I'm loving the shiny canopy, bits, and Force. (Well, it's more like "I want to eat them!", but... durrr...)
Reply
:iconangriestangryartist:
AngriestAngryArtist Aug 25, 2007  Professional Digital Artist
hmm...I see a bit of smudging neart some of the decal lines.

Ain't too shabby Bates. Did you use the same white on the main body of the ships (the one that supports the blue cockpit)

With the little wings sprouting out here and there near the thrusters? Cuz they seem rather off. Or did you intend it that way. I'm impressed dood, all this with a hand brush, good job.

Oh I recently went ebaying and bought me a nice new sexy airbrush. It's so sexy, it make my stuff sexier. Don't you wanna be as sexy as me?
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:icondaimera:
That came out really nice! Man, though, sounds like that was one hell of a journey. Thanks for giving the... er... journal of its progress!
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